Vondeling Babiana 2012
Vondeling Wines come from Vondeling Wine Estate in the Voor Paardeberg area between Malmesbury and Wellington.
The Paardeberg Mountain is named after herds of Quagga and Cape Mountain Zebra (Perde)which used to roam its slopes.
A short throw back to 1704 is needed to get to the roots of this estate. It was first owned by Oloff Bergh- a famous Swedish pioneer linked with the Dutch government of the day. His existing farmhouse- built in 1750- still stands to this day. The well- known Oloff Bergh Brandy- distilled in Rawsonville- is named after him.
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| Original Vondeling Farmhouse built in 1750 |
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| Oloff Bergh. First hipster of the Cape? |
Vondeling is the farm name, and means, 'Foundling'- an abandoned child.
Wine at Vondeling
Farm owner Julian Johnson has been managing the Vondeling vineyards for over 12 years. Vineyards are managed biologically with continuing efforts to reduce the impact use of chemicals.
Most of the vineyards face south, and the South- Easter combines with this favorable aspect to give cooler conditions- for grape growing- than surrounding areas (up to 5 degrees cooler).
South- facing vineyards, and cool southwesterly winds blowing every day in the late afternoon means cooler conditions than surrounding appellations
The Paardeberg is known for its decomposed granite soils. These soils give distinction to many of the old vines growing on the original farm site including old blocks of Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc. Granite soil heats quickly, and retains heat well. It has a high acidity, and helps subdue acidity in acidic grape varieties. There's a layer of clay below a sandy upper layer, which holds water through the dry season. Thus most of the vines are unirrigated- leading to deeper root systems for the vines and more minerality in the wines made from these grapes.
Granite soils give distinction and a gravel- minerality to older plantings of Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc
Viognier and Chardonnay grow on alluvial soils promoting more vigorous growth, and reds grow on east and south- west facing slopes on Oakleaf and Tukulu soils.
Whats also important to note is that lower yields are encouraged leading to more concentration in the Vondeling wines.
Wines produced from the older vines on the farm tend to be more complex in flavour, achieve natural balance, reflect terroir better, and have a distinct, mouth- filling texture. Concentration and complexity is also helped by a tending towards natural fermentation on more the premium wines.
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| South- facing vineyards |
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| Granite outcrop on the Paardeberg |
Winemaker Matthew Copeland makes a range of wines based mainly on Chenin Blanc for the white wines to Syrah for the reds. Going forward most new plantings are to Mediterranean grape varieties which are more suited to the warmer climate of the Voor Paardeberg and Swartland areas.
The winery is based in a converted milking shed with thick clay walls and a Rietdak thatch ceiling where the wines are matured in mainly older second and 3rd fill french oak barrels.
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| Old Clay and Rietdak maturation cellar |
Conservation
The Babiana blend is named after the plant Babiana Noctiflora- a night- time flowering fynbos flower which only grows on the Paardeberg mountain.
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| The Babiana Noctiflora flower |
Vondeling is the primary sponsor of the PSI, or Paardeberg Biodiversity Initiative which funds various conservation efforts, and has been involved in detailed environmental surveys recording all the species occurring on the mountain- sitting now at 900 and counting.
Typical Fynbos wildlife occurs on the mountain, and camera traps have photographed Cape Leopards roaming the area.
2 of Vondeling's wines- the Babiana white blend, and Erica Shiraz are named after indigenous plants.
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| Baboon selfie, and a large male Leopard protecting the vines from Baboons.. |
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| Erica Hippuris |
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| Flowers- Indigenous |
The Grapes
The Voor Paardeberg and Swartland areas are blessed with plantings of old Rhone- varietal vines including Viognier, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Clairette Blanche. Other older plantings of Chenin Blanc, Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay also occur, with Chenin being the most abundant. These varieties produce exciting, blended white wines which are distinctive, terroir specific, and make a bold case for a truly unique style of South African wine.
The style which seems to be in favour is a wine based on Chenin Blanc, naturally fermented, fermented dry, and matured in predominantly older French oak barrels.
Chenin Blanc makes up 49% of the blend in question, and forms its backbone. Grapes are harvested from an old, low- yielding vineyard- known as The Graveyard Block . Its 32 years old!
Quality and concentration of fruit flavour from this block is excellent, and because the vines are unirrigated and roots go down quite deep- there's a nice gravelly/ flinty minerality the grapes add to the wine.
Chenin Blanc from a 32- year old vineyard called The Graveyard Block
Grenache Blanc (21%) adds a delightful freshness to the wine, with citrus and fresh herb flavours (maybe even a hint of lavender?). It contributes good acidic length to the Babiana 2012. Vintage has a profound effect on the final wine flavours, and as such the amount winemaker Matthew adds to the blend does vary. The past few vintages saw 3%, 3%, 8%, 8% and now 21% being added.
Viognier (15%). Viognier is an aromatic grape variety which adds structure and pronounced peach and floral aroma to a white blend. It has the propensity to overpower blends if not added sparingly- displaying very powerful aromatics, and then tart, tropical fruit and apricot flavours. As such there has not been more than 24% Viognier in a Vondeling blend.
Chardonnay (15%) contributes additional vigour and freshness to the wine, extra citrus and Naartjie flavour, and fills out the palate with a nice viscosity. Grapes come from an old single- vineyard block.
The Wine
Matthew Copeland and his team hand- pick the grapes and the are whole- bunch pressed straight into barrel.
This means that the grapes are not put through a de- stemmer or crusher but pressed while still attached to the stems. This is usually done to produce a more delicate wine
Grapes are whole- bunch pressed- producing a more delicate wine. This method is most often used for sparkling wines
The press cycle takes longer, but the results are better. The juice is cleaner, less astringent and less bitter.
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| Whole bunches of white grapes being pressed |
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| Grapes are hand- harvested for the Babiana.. |
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| Its raining grapes |
Natural fermentation takes place in barrel, and the wine remains on the primary lees for 7 months. Batches are fermented separately. This is a nerve- racking time for the winemaker as the wine ferments at different speeds. The resulting wine however shows greater complexity, concentration, structure and palate weight.
After 7 months the wine is racked, blended and returned to barrel for a further 4 months.
My pretentious tasting note:
I thought the wine deserved a poetic description, so here goes:
The 2012 edition of the Babiana is my favourite to date. 21% extra Grenache Blanc has added a bit more freshness to the wine.
Crisp and distinct, it shows soft, honeyed citrus fruit on the nose with a hint of acacia blossom.
A complex palate follows with fruit layers of Mandarin Orange, Sweet Lime and quince laced with yellow spice
The finish on the palate is longer than on previous vintages, and acidity- racier.
Enjoy with poultry dishes or take a bottle with to your favourite Indian restaurant. Don't order anything too mild as the flavours may overpower the food. I thought it went very well with a medium- hot Khadai or Masala curry- both tomato- based.
Tasting Room & Potjie Competition
The best place to enjoy Vondeling wines aside from at home or at your favourite restaurant is at the farm. The tasting room looks back over the Paardeberg, and offers cracking picnics and a guided tour through the wide range of wines.
Every year in August, Vondeling hosts a Potjie Competition involving teams from the area, and from the wine trade. Its well worth attending. This year my team, Esperanca went on to win- providing some valuable insight into a strategy for next year! The winning dish was an oxtail potjie.
I did some research into what constitutes a proper potjie and this is what I found:
1) Its cooked in a round, cast iron, three-legged pot, the potjie
2) A potjie should include lightly- spiced meat on the bone, vegetable and starches
3) Meat is browned, and the vegetables then added
4) Liquid and often an alcoholic beverage of some sort can be added in small quantities. Sherry and wine both work well.
5) Once the meat is browned, and the vegetables and then liquid (optional) added, a potjie should not be stirred- distinguishing it from a stew.
6) Cooking is done at a very low temperature by steam, and not by boiling like a stew.
7) Length of time for cooking is between 2- 6 hours.
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| The winning team |
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