Chenin Blanc, Chenin Blends
Having had the privilege of tasting and working with two of the Cape 's most famous Wines in recent times, the Alheit Vineyards Cartology (Chenin Blanc/ Semillon) and Radio Lazarus Chenin Blanc- and having explored many other Chenin and Chenin based blends since, I feel that here we have a distinct style of wine and a grape variety which could potentially give proper definition to our region as a whole internationally.
There is a relatively new and general interest among Cape winemakers into producing these 2 wines- straight Chenin, and Chenin Blanc blended with a combination of the following- Semillon, Chardonnay, several white southern french varietals and an occasional dash of Sauvignon Blanc.
Back in 2007 when I started learning about wine, one of my milestone Wines was a Ken Forester FMC 2002, made from a single vineyard- organically managed- bush vine vineyard planted in 1974. This big, robust Chenin Blanc showed remarkable finesse and texture along with the significant body and fruit.
Wines that have stood out since then include Jordan Chenin Blanc, Vondeling Babiana, Rudera Chenin Blanc, AA Badenhorst family white, Sadie Family Wines Palladius and recently the Keermont Vineyards Terrasse blend.
Having read up about old vine Chenin, I discovered that South Africa has a large percentage of the world's Chenin Blanc and it was one of the first grapes planted by Jan Van Riebeeck (alongside Pontac and Muscat) in the 17th century. A massive amount of heritage value is attached to this variety.
 |
| Swartland Chenin Blanc bush vines. |
 |
| Old bush vines used for Rudera Chenin Blanc |
Having read up about old vine Chenin, I discovered that South Africa has a large percentage of the world's Chenin Blanc and it was one of the first grapes planted by Jan Van Riebeeck (alongside Pontac and Muscat) in the 17th century. A massive amount of heritage value is attached to this variety.
Much of the Chenin hype in recent times has been around older vineyards of Chenin. Many Stellenbosch winemakers, and notably young winemakers in the Swartland region have restored and nurtured older vineyards- many leased from other farmers- to producing good quality fruit.
Much of the fruit comes from bush vines, planted in the 'Gibelet' method whereby the vine looks like a little tree. This inhibits water evaporation in hotter areas, and is better or the vine in nutrient deficient soils.
These older Vineyards produce smaller berries and fewer bunches of grapes. Correct pruning is also key to vineyard management. Wines produced tend to be more complex in flavour, achieve natural balance, reflect terroir better, and a distinct, mouth- filling texture. Concentration and complexity is also helped by a tending towards natural fermentation.
Many older vineyards are also unirrigated, resulting in less dilution of flavour as well.
Many commercial farmers will pull older vines out in favour of younger, higher yielding vines, but local producers of premium wine offerings are preserving these older vines and offering a higher price per hectare to the farmers. It is estimated that around 370 hectares of older Chenin Blanc still remains (older than 30 yrs or so).
Much of the fruit comes from bush vines, planted in the 'Gibelet' method whereby the vine looks like a little tree. This inhibits water evaporation in hotter areas, and is better or the vine in nutrient deficient soils.
These older Vineyards produce smaller berries and fewer bunches of grapes. Correct pruning is also key to vineyard management. Wines produced tend to be more complex in flavour, achieve natural balance, reflect terroir better, and a distinct, mouth- filling texture. Concentration and complexity is also helped by a tending towards natural fermentation.
Many older vineyards are also unirrigated, resulting in less dilution of flavour as well.
Many commercial farmers will pull older vines out in favour of younger, higher yielding vines, but local producers of premium wine offerings are preserving these older vines and offering a higher price per hectare to the farmers. It is estimated that around 370 hectares of older Chenin Blanc still remains (older than 30 yrs or so).
Chenin Blanc is a very versatile grape, it blends well with other varieties, reflects terroir very well, and can be made in many styles. In its traditional home in France it creates sweet to bone- dry Wines in Vouvray, Quarts De Chaume and Sauvenieres.
In South Africa the Chenin Blanc Association lists 6 important styles:
- fresh and fruity
- Rich and ripe unwooded
- rich and ripe wooded
- rich and ripe slightly sweet
- sweet
- sparkling
In South Africa the Chenin Blanc Association lists 6 important styles:
- fresh and fruity
- Rich and ripe unwooded
- rich and ripe wooded
- rich and ripe slightly sweet
- sweet
- sparkling
18% of grapes grown in South Africa are Chenin Blanc grapes. A big percentage of the wines made are table wines and international perception of South Africa Chenin has been of cheap, cheerful white wines, often unwooded. The big challenge going forward is to first convince a fickle local market that these wines are worth their oft slightly higher prices. To the detriment of the industry, our value offering has been marketed more than premium ones.
In creating a global identity, much can be said for these wines. A sense of place and heritage is very important, and this box is ticked. Quality is good. Style will be varied but I think the wines put forward as our signature, global flagship should be along the lines of many of the Swartland offerings - naturally fermented Wines, fermented dry and matured in older barrels. I think that heavily wooded wines- despite being very delicious- do not reflect terroir as much as I'd like. Chenin is more delicate than Chardonnay, and doesn't need overt oak invest to express itself more fully.
A unified approach to making a specific style, and agreeing on a single cultivar is always going to be a challenge for South African winemakers. And this coupled with a need for higher volumes of our class offerings is what holds the region back from establishing an international footprint in much the same way New Zealand did with Sauvignon Blanc.
These are exciting wines. Important Stellenbosch pioneers of mainly single varietal Chenin Blanc include Ken Forester, Rudera, Raats, Mulderbosch, De Trafford, Bellingham and De Morgenzon.
Much new hype and excitement around Chenin has however come from out of the Swartland in recent times. Young winemakers are making delicious chenin- based blends with white Rhone varieties, Chardonnay and occasional Sauvignon Blanc and Verdelho components as well.
Pioneers include AA Badenhorst Wines, Sadie Family Wines, Lammershoek and mullineux Wines.
Much new hype and excitement around Chenin has however come from out of the Swartland in recent times. Young winemakers are making delicious chenin- based blends with white Rhone varieties, Chardonnay and occasional Sauvignon Blanc and Verdelho components as well.
Pioneers include AA Badenhorst Wines, Sadie Family Wines, Lammershoek and mullineux Wines.
Keermont Vineyards Terrasse
Keermont Vineyards in Stellenbosch adds another take on this unique regional offering with their Keermont Terrasse white, a blend of 40 year old vine Chenin Blanc, younger Chardonnay, Chenin, and Viognier, and then a dash of 26 year old Sauvignon Blanc.
This is Stellenbosch 's answer - if I may- to the Swartland blends.
This is Stellenbosch 's answer - if I may- to the Swartland blends.
With a long history of grape growing, the Blaauwklippen valley in Stellenbosch is home to Dornier, Waterford, Kleinood, Stellenzicht and De Trafford wineries. Keermont is right at the top of the valley and was founded in 2006, with younger vines being panted in 2005 to add to the older blocks.
Their maiden vintage was in 2007 and the wine cellar was built in 2010.
Their maiden vintage was in 2007 and the wine cellar was built in 2010.
 |
| The upper Blaauwklippen Valley, Stellenbosch |
Natural and attentive vineyard management, coupled with a minimal intervention approach in the wine cellar is conducive to working with the high quality fruit that comes into the cellar.
Grapes are all harvested according to optimal ripeness, naturally fermented in older barrels and matured for 12 months for optimal integration of fruit, acidity and body.
I found the wine to be fresh, ripe and citrussy with gorgeous length, and a nice zest edge on the finish. Acidity is not aggressive, but we'll integrated and racy. This may have been overshadowed by too much Oak. There's a nice mineral, chalky earthiness to the wine reminiscent of some of the better Swartland examples I have tried.
13 barrels of Keermont Terrasse were made, and it retails for around R120.00. An absolute steal for such a great wine- from the farm or at a discerning liquor store near you.
It is currently available at Catharina's, Aubergine, Thornton Whites, Majeka House and Rust En Vrede restaurants. If you don't visit any of these, enjoy a glass at Publik wine bar in Cape Town city centre.
In this article I have emphasized the importance of old bush vines in the production of some of the top Chenin and Chenin blends. Indeed for the more remote offerings they are important, and need to be looked after to sustain the production of some of our flagship Wines in South Africa.
We are still blessed with a lot of younger Chenin, and I am looking forward to seeing better Wines in the middle price range being made.
Many other Rhone varieties are being planted and other interesting single varietal Wines are being made. I recently tried a Craven Clairette Blanche from Stellenbosch and it was superb. Blackwater Wine have a limited edition Bourboulenc on offer, a Languedoc grape.
Many other Rhone varieties are being planted and other interesting single varietal Wines are being made. I recently tried a Craven Clairette Blanche from Stellenbosch and it was superb. Blackwater Wine have a limited edition Bourboulenc on offer, a Languedoc grape.
Chenin Blanc still makes a great value for money wine, and should continue to do so. It's a crowd pleaser and more of the market should explore it as a household wine. It's what I drink through summer as a table wine.
Then in the more complex and interesting expressions of this grape and it's blends there really is a good case that can be made for its being put forward as our distinctly South African flagship. Something classy, as I feel Pinotage will never fully recover it's reputation. Pinotage is only ever great at the super premium level of production, and doesn't carry the consistency through all levels of quality as Chenin can.
