Oak Valley Sémillon 2013

Oak Valley Sémillon 2013

I first gained an appreciation for Sémillon at the Constantia Utsig wine cellar tasting room in Constantia. It helped that the tasting room assistant was a serious, 'smous'. They have a cracking wine on offer there, and I remember it being quite spicy, with a gentle acidity. It was more drinkable than the Sauvignon Blanc I had just tried but at the same time was more complex- particularly on the palate. There was a distinct lemony candle- wax mouth- feel on the finish. Sorry- I got a bit carried away there, but it really was a very captivating experience drinking this wine. Its full bodied, and yet there are so many little flavour subtleties to enjoy. 

The texture and viscosity of the wine are akin to Chardonnay, but then flavours are closer to Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc. A wine to drink, but if you really want to fuss, you can.  

Sémillon (known first as, 'wyndruif' or, 'wine grape' because it was easy to cultivate, and then as 'green grape' due to the green colour of the grape), Pontac, Muscat De Frontignan and Chenin Blanc were the first grapes brought to the Cape in 1655/ 1656. These grapes over all others have had centuries to adapt to the South African conditions.

There was Sémillon growing in the company gardens before there was Cabernet Sauvignon grown in the Medoc, Bordeaux

'Green Grape' Semillon

There isn't too much Sémillon left. Once accounting for around 93% of South African grapes,  about 1% remains. 

Much of the disappearance has to do with the rise in popularity of still- wine Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc, as well as other blended white wines.
Semillon plantings of old were used in brandy making, and here again, grapes like Crouchen Blanc, Colombard and Chenin Blanc and new cultivars Weldra, Nouvelle and Chenel are more in favour.

Of the different regions, there is a resurgence in interest in straight Sémillon wines in Franschoek, but elsewhere its grown mainly to be blended with other  grapes- mainly Sauvignon Blanc.

Blended with Sauvignon Blanc, it eases the wine's acidity. It then adds a creamier texture and makes the wine more complex.

Quite a few local Sauvignon Blancs actually contain between 1%- 15% Sémillon. By law this little addition doesn't have to be mentioned on the wine label

Semillon takes to being matured in barrel quite well, and as such a lot of blended Sémillon in South Africa is matured in old barrels for a few months to accentuate its texture.

Elsewhere in the world, and particularly in Australia, Sémillon blends well with Chardonnay. Local winemakers increasingly blend Chenin Blanc with Semillon, the more famous example being the Alheit Vineyards Cartology.

The few local examples of straight Sémillon available on shop shelves and wine lists can be overlooked in favour of more popular varietals and white blends. Its not a mover and shaker- which is a pity- as its such an accessible drink, particularly when barrel-matured- not as full as Chardonnay, less acidic than Sauv Blanc and more defined than many Chenin Blanc's. 
I have tried 2 unwooded Sémillon's recently- and wines of some renown at that- and found them to be a bit boring, resembling young Sauvignon Blanc. I didn't really get the point.

The spiritual home of Sémillon is Bordeaux in France, where around 7% of the wines made are white wines. Of these, the best dry white wines are made form- predominantly- Sauvignon Blanc, blended with Sémillon and Muscadelle. The famous sweet wines of Barsac and Sauternes- though- are made from a greater portion of Sémillon.

The worlds' most famous dessert wine Château d'Yquem is made from 80% Semillon. According to Jancis Robinson's blog on the wine, the best still wines with majority Sémillon are Chateau Haut- Brion Blanc and La Mission Haut- Brion Blanc.

Oak Valley Sémillon

Oak Valley estate has a 0.58 hectare vineyard of Sémillon planted in 2004.

Spontaneously fermented, the wine spends 9 months in barrel. Natural fermentation releases more aroma and glucose compounds in the wine, promoting the fruit flavours and making it more complex.

Natural fermentation releases more aroma and glucose compounds in the wine

Only older barrels are used to accentuate the fruit and floral characteristics of the wine, and to promote texture.

Alcohol and sugar is low, so it's a dry but full of zesty fruit and lemon-curd flavours.

With grapes harvested up to 3 weeks later than in Stellenbosch just minutes away, a nice brisk acidity is retained in the wine.

Tasting note:

A brilliant summer yellow color- shown off in a well selected flint bottle.

Nose of fragrant lanolin and lemon curd.

Lovely yellow, subtly tropical fruit on the palate, predominantly golden delicious apple skin. Creamy texture Ripe lime zest on the finish. Well defined and not overpowering acidity promotes a lingering finish.

When to drink?

I love to drink this wine on its own as it has good complexity, but is still gentle and easily approached. As a setting, The Pool Room at Oak Valley is a superb lunch- time experience to enjoy the wine with a meal, or merely visit the tasting room and take some home. Its exclusively available in Cape Town at Weinhaus & Biergarten in Bree St.

With food, I would reccomend a piece of nice, very fresh fish with not much else accompanying it. Perhaps an oily, firm fish like Kingklip or Kabeljou. A sprinkle of Maldon salt and a twist of Lemon, and the subtlety of the wine will not deter from the lovely natural saline/ fish flavours.

I cant see straight Semillon making a comeback soon in terms of popularity and plantings. There is still some around, and I hope that the variety is explored increasingly as a constituent of good Chenin- based blends, and barrel- matured dry white wines.