Festive Season Favourites

Festive Season Favourites

Another festive season ends, a slight hangover is brushed aside and its straight back to work at Cabo Esperanca Wines.

Reminiscing- today- about some of the epic meals enjoyed, there were also some top wines enjoyed. In amongst all the Gamon, Lamb and other christmas fare were a Cordoba Crescendo 2006, Tamboerskloof Syrah 2006, Keermont Syrah 2012 and Black Elephant The Back Roads Grenache 2014.
A few older White wines impressed us more than the red wines. The first of which was a Thelema Riesling 2009.

Thelema Riesling 2009

A lovely vintage for Stellenbosch, the Riesling was full on the palate with a racy acidity. Being easy on the terpenes and other tertiary flavours usually associated with older SA Riesling, there was evident quince, Grannysmith Apple and flint flavours.It was bold and pungent but still refreshing.

The same day we opened two 2008 wines, a High Constantia Nova Zonnestraal Sauvignon Blanc 2008, and Newton Johnson Domaine Chardonnay 2008.

I know that 2008 was an exceptional vintage for a few Constantia producers. The Klein Constantia Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Constantia Glen Sauvignon Blanc 2008, Eagle's Nest Shiraz 2008 and Constantia Uitsig wines from that vintage were well accoladed and superb. 

I haven't explored many Hemel- En Aarde wines from that vintage, but I know that there are climatic similarities between the 2 areas.

It was a difficult, wet vintage with a few heat waves, but some of the cooler wine producing areas made wines with lovely concentration and none too overt acidity.

Newton Johnson Domaine Chardonnay 2008

Newton Johnson Domaine Chardonnay 2008 showed richness expected of a mature Chardonnay, though it was still restrained, bright and citrussy- even showing some primary flavours. A chalky minerality was evident on the finish, which persisted until the next sip.

High Constantia Nova Zonnestraal Sauvignon Blanc 2008

High Constantia Nova Zonnestraal Sauvignon Blanc 2008 was my wine of the season. The ageability of Sauvignon Blanc has been debated with various wine industry colleagues over the years, with an almost unanimous preference towards its settling for a few years prior to opening.

I have enjoyed a number of wines over the years which have had some wood contact and have been aged, but this was an unwooded wine we tasted.

I enjoyed it because there was less vegetal character evident than with other old wines tried. When Sauvignon Blanc is well- made and based on great quality fruit, primary stone- fruit and melon flavours are enhanced through ageing. These were the exact flavours I picked up, with just a background hint of asparagus. Not unattractive at all. Acidity was not steely and aggressive but seamlessly integrated in a superbly balanced wine.

Nova Zonnestraal just off the M3 in Wynberg/ Constantia is known for good quality fruit, and the aspect and other terroir factors in that area are favourable for the production of top quality white wine.

Hats off to one of the oldest members of my wine collection.

Elgin Cool Wine & Country Festival 2015

Elgin Cool Wine & Country Festival 2015

The rolling hills of the Elgin valley- just 1 hour from Cape Town

The first weekend of May heralds South Africa's youngest regional wine celebration. This was my second Elgin Cool Wine & Country Festival, in South Africa's youngest wine region- Elgin.

We arrived at Peregrine Farm stall early in the day, in order to purchase our festival passports (reasonably priced at R100.00) and visit a few producers we had missed the previous year.

Previously we had visited Shannon, Lothian, Winter's Drift, Cathy Marshall and Oak Valley. The first festival had really impressed me in terms of having experienced intimate tastings at each farm, absent of big crowds. Wines across the board showed great balance, with particularly well developed acidity in both reds and whites. That day the Bordeaux red varieties were particularly impressive and interesting, as most producers in Elgin notably promote Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc as regional specialties. The Shannon Merlot and Oak Valley Merlot Cabernet blend were my wines of the day back then.

This year attendance was more than double that of the previous, which must be extremely encouraging for the valley. The region continues to generate interest in the local trade, and i've been increasingly aware of this in the past few months. Conditions really are conducive to the production of top quality wines, and coupled with the best known producers Oak Valley, Shannon, Paul Cluver, Cathy Marshall and Iona are a number of excellent smaller producers starting to generate interest.
3 of these were on my list for that morning.

Almenkerk

Belgian Joris Van Almenkerk make the wines at this little family- run winery. I was first exposed to their Sauvignon Blanc wines, and later a Syrah over dinner with friends.
Architecturally the winery is beautiful. Slick lines, arches and marble compliment a beautiful view of the southern part of the Elgin crater.

Almenkerk- Slick

Wines tasted were a Sauvignon Blanc 2014, Chardonnay 2013 and Syrah 2011. The Sauvignon Blanc was distinctive with its grannysmith apple acidity, nettly herbaceous edge and defined varietal flavours. The Syrah was still quite tight, and needs ageing. Distinctive of Syrah from this area, it showed smoked game notes on the nose with bitter spice. The palate is crunchy red fruit- driven.
The star- and my white wine of the day- was their Chardonnay 2013. Naturally fermented and left to its own devices for much of the wine- making process, this fresh, restrained Chardonnay is also complex and citrussy. There's a nice long finish, testament to great natural acidity. Hardly any evidence of overt oaking made this a truly delicate, interesting drink.

On the left- a winner Chardonnay 

Fruit quality and vineyard management are definitely contributing significantly to these lovely clean wines.

 Paul Wallace

Paul Wallace is a viticultural consultant best known for his involvement in the Elgin Vintners range of wines.
The Wallace family have been farming in Elgin since 2003- on the farm, 'Wallovale'.
There are plantings of  Malbec, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir.

Wallovale

One of the vacant labourers cottages now hosts their tasting room which is usually managed by any one of the 4 Wallace family members.
This certainly was the homeliest tasting venue I have visited and by 10h30am it was inundated with wine enthusiasts. Despite this their son Mark took time to take us through the range.

Friendly guys these Wallace's

Their bordeaux blend, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc were all friendly enough but the flagship of the winery and best wine is their dark, inky Black Dog Malbec- one of the few Malbecs in Elgin.

The Original Black Dog- a Labrador/ Rottweiler cross named Jake

With a great natural acidity, I picked up an interesting Moccha freshness on the palate. The mixed berry fruit profile has a dark chocolate richness to it.

Each farm puts on a separate culinary theme, and I was disappointed to miss Paul's braai he was putting on as we left.

Charles Fox

Further down the road and much to the delight of bubbly lover Mrs. Martin we visited the young Charles Fox winery. This winery specializes in the production of Methode Cap Classique wines only.
Charles Fox surveyed most of the Cape winelands to find his terroir- specific site for planting Pinot Noir Pinot Meuniere and Chardonnay grapes. He is one of the first planters of Pinot Meuniere in the country.  Wines are made with French wine consultant Nicolas Follet.
We tasted their Vintage Brut 2012, Vintage Rose Brut 2011 and Cipher Brut Reserve 2011.

Their Cipher Brut 2011 was my wine of the day overall, and best MCC of the year so far. It is a blend of 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay. There was an evident weight on the palate and a rich mousse with delicate nougat and citrus flavours. The finish persists for an eternity and there is a lovely green orange zestiness around the edge.

Wine of the day- Charles Fox Cipher MCC 2011

Oak Valley

Lunch was up, and we had one more stop to make before a small task of driving to Robertson through Villiersdorp.

The Pool Room at Oak Valley continues to impress, and Chef Jacques Theron is working with some fantastic local produce. I believe that this is the best lunch destination in Elgin.

During the festival, each farm develops their own attraction for the 2 days and Oak Valley had a succession of live music acts lined up through the day.

We enjoyed some excellent music over a glass of the Mountain Reserve 2010, the farm's award- winning bordeaux- style white wine, a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. Lunch itself was delicious- Wagyu beef burgers hitting the spot well.

I also re- visited the Oak Valley Merlot Cabernet blend, the same wine I had rated so highly a year before. Its superb, and continues to peak showing primary fruit flavours, and a minty caramel richness from the Cabernet Franc component.

The Oak Valley Merlot Cabernet blend- still peaking

ECWCF Summed up

Intimate, no crowds, consistently good wine across the region

This festival is well organised, under- crowded and intimate. Wines are consistently good across all price- points which is another distinguishing factor for the region.
I would reccomend visiting some of the smaller producers in the area because there really are some gems.

More attention to detail needed, Pinot Noir

I have tried too many thin- tasting Pinot Noirs recently. I was not overwhelmed by the quality of any of the Pinot Noirs I tasted at the festival each year. Every other category offered up something special, but young vines, too much extraction, early releases and too much use of new oak has lead to no good Pinot Noirs tasted aside from the traditional champions of the cause. These being Cathy Marshall, Shannon, Oak Valley and Paul Cluver.

Superb Chardonnay

The opposite was experienced with that other notable Burgundy variety- Chardonnay. The Oak Valley and Almenkerk Chardonnays were really delicious, captivating wines. Both represented a fresher, more linear profile of the variety. Having tasted the Iona and Kershaw wines from Elgin recently as well, I believe that there are some remarkable Chardonnays being produced in the region right now.

Something different

I would say take a few friends along to next year's festival, try the flagship Chardonnay, Pinot Noirs and Sauv Blancs between the farms, but keep an eye on some of the little gems and extras that each farm offers. Special mention here of the Rieslings, Merlots, and Syrah on offer.

Wine Lunches

Lastly, every farm prepares a special wine- themed lunch that one can book for in advance. I plan to hit one of these next year. Don't miss out!

Keermont Syrah 2012

Keermont Syrah 2012

Tuesday afternoon this week offered up a perfect opportunity to taste the latest offering from Alex Starey, winemaker at Keermont Vineyards in Stellenbosch.

Gavin Pittaway from Panama Jacks was the appointment, and I visited the famed harbour- side seafood restaurant with a few new vintages to try and persuade his selections for the new wine list. Its no secret that Panama Jacks put out one of the best damn wine lists in town, adjusting their selections twice a year.

Syrah at Keermont

Grapes come from 2 single- vineyard plantings at the top of the Blaauwklippen Valley. The Steepside Vineyard is planted on a buttress on the Helderberg Mountains and is north- facing. Some of the vines are planted in the, 'Echalas' method of tethering the vine to a pole, and soils are granitic. These vineyards produce wine with power, spice and slight herbal/ fynbos aromas. This vintage sees a splash of Mourvedre being added to the wine. This is also part of the Steepside single- vineyard designation.

The next component of the wine is from the Topside Vineyard, South and West- facing on the Stellenbosch Mountain range. Topside Syrah is more refined and aromatic, with a more delicate tannin structure. I think that the fact that conditions at Topside are cooler add much to these character traits.

The Wine Itself

All grapes were harvested by hand. The small Keermont A- Team of not more than 10 get the job done, and different parcels of grapes are harvested according to ripeness. Steepside grapes come in first.

Fermentation takes place in open fermentors, and maturation follows in old 500- litre barrels for about 20 months.

There's no filtration before bottling, which further enhances flavours of what is a lovely natural, clean, terroir- driven wine. 

Composition in the blend is 53% Steepside Syrah,  42% Topside Syrah, and  5% Steepside Mourvedre.

Smashing reviews by amongst others Tim Atkin MW, the Wine Cellar team, and a 5- Star nod from Decanter Magazine had all been noted prior to tasting the wine.

Tasting Note

My lunch- time tasters on Tuesday loved the wine, and it was finished rather quickly. Keermont Syrah is a rich, ripe wine without being jammy. Fruit, tannin, alcohol and acidity intricately balance in a round, velvety mouth- feel.

Compared with the previous vintage, I did appreciate that this wine was tighter in tannin structure- perhaps due to a cooler vintage, and having a dash of Mourvedre added.

I loved the honesty of flavour, purity of fruit and spice- nuances which kept me returning to my glass, and finishing mine more slowly than everyone else.

Its a class act, and I think there is going to be alot positive chatter in the wine trade around this wine.

Oak Valley Sémillon 2013

Oak Valley Sémillon 2013

I first gained an appreciation for Sémillon at the Constantia Utsig wine cellar tasting room in Constantia. It helped that the tasting room assistant was a serious, 'smous'. They have a cracking wine on offer there, and I remember it being quite spicy, with a gentle acidity. It was more drinkable than the Sauvignon Blanc I had just tried but at the same time was more complex- particularly on the palate. There was a distinct lemony candle- wax mouth- feel on the finish. Sorry- I got a bit carried away there, but it really was a very captivating experience drinking this wine. Its full bodied, and yet there are so many little flavour subtleties to enjoy. 

The texture and viscosity of the wine are akin to Chardonnay, but then flavours are closer to Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc. A wine to drink, but if you really want to fuss, you can.  

Sémillon (known first as, 'wyndruif' or, 'wine grape' because it was easy to cultivate, and then as 'green grape' due to the green colour of the grape), Pontac, Muscat De Frontignan and Chenin Blanc were the first grapes brought to the Cape in 1655/ 1656. These grapes over all others have had centuries to adapt to the South African conditions.

There was Sémillon growing in the company gardens before there was Cabernet Sauvignon grown in the Medoc, Bordeaux

'Green Grape' Semillon

There isn't too much Sémillon left. Once accounting for around 93% of South African grapes,  about 1% remains. 

Much of the disappearance has to do with the rise in popularity of still- wine Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc, as well as other blended white wines.
Semillon plantings of old were used in brandy making, and here again, grapes like Crouchen Blanc, Colombard and Chenin Blanc and new cultivars Weldra, Nouvelle and Chenel are more in favour.

Of the different regions, there is a resurgence in interest in straight Sémillon wines in Franschoek, but elsewhere its grown mainly to be blended with other  grapes- mainly Sauvignon Blanc.

Blended with Sauvignon Blanc, it eases the wine's acidity. It then adds a creamier texture and makes the wine more complex.

Quite a few local Sauvignon Blancs actually contain between 1%- 15% Sémillon. By law this little addition doesn't have to be mentioned on the wine label

Semillon takes to being matured in barrel quite well, and as such a lot of blended Sémillon in South Africa is matured in old barrels for a few months to accentuate its texture.

Elsewhere in the world, and particularly in Australia, Sémillon blends well with Chardonnay. Local winemakers increasingly blend Chenin Blanc with Semillon, the more famous example being the Alheit Vineyards Cartology.

The few local examples of straight Sémillon available on shop shelves and wine lists can be overlooked in favour of more popular varietals and white blends. Its not a mover and shaker- which is a pity- as its such an accessible drink, particularly when barrel-matured- not as full as Chardonnay, less acidic than Sauv Blanc and more defined than many Chenin Blanc's. 
I have tried 2 unwooded Sémillon's recently- and wines of some renown at that- and found them to be a bit boring, resembling young Sauvignon Blanc. I didn't really get the point.

The spiritual home of Sémillon is Bordeaux in France, where around 7% of the wines made are white wines. Of these, the best dry white wines are made form- predominantly- Sauvignon Blanc, blended with Sémillon and Muscadelle. The famous sweet wines of Barsac and Sauternes- though- are made from a greater portion of Sémillon.

The worlds' most famous dessert wine Château d'Yquem is made from 80% Semillon. According to Jancis Robinson's blog on the wine, the best still wines with majority Sémillon are Chateau Haut- Brion Blanc and La Mission Haut- Brion Blanc.

Oak Valley Sémillon

Oak Valley estate has a 0.58 hectare vineyard of Sémillon planted in 2004.

Spontaneously fermented, the wine spends 9 months in barrel. Natural fermentation releases more aroma and glucose compounds in the wine, promoting the fruit flavours and making it more complex.

Natural fermentation releases more aroma and glucose compounds in the wine

Only older barrels are used to accentuate the fruit and floral characteristics of the wine, and to promote texture.

Alcohol and sugar is low, so it's a dry but full of zesty fruit and lemon-curd flavours.

With grapes harvested up to 3 weeks later than in Stellenbosch just minutes away, a nice brisk acidity is retained in the wine.

Tasting note:

A brilliant summer yellow color- shown off in a well selected flint bottle.

Nose of fragrant lanolin and lemon curd.

Lovely yellow, subtly tropical fruit on the palate, predominantly golden delicious apple skin. Creamy texture Ripe lime zest on the finish. Well defined and not overpowering acidity promotes a lingering finish.

When to drink?

I love to drink this wine on its own as it has good complexity, but is still gentle and easily approached. As a setting, The Pool Room at Oak Valley is a superb lunch- time experience to enjoy the wine with a meal, or merely visit the tasting room and take some home. Its exclusively available in Cape Town at Weinhaus & Biergarten in Bree St.

With food, I would reccomend a piece of nice, very fresh fish with not much else accompanying it. Perhaps an oily, firm fish like Kingklip or Kabeljou. A sprinkle of Maldon salt and a twist of Lemon, and the subtlety of the wine will not deter from the lovely natural saline/ fish flavours.

I cant see straight Semillon making a comeback soon in terms of popularity and plantings. There is still some around, and I hope that the variety is explored increasingly as a constituent of good Chenin- based blends, and barrel- matured dry white wines.

Vondeling RURALE Methode Ancestral

Vondeling RURALE Methode Ancestral

Last month I joined a host of celebrated wine fundi's for the launch of the Vondeling Rurale Methode Ancestral, an MA, as a pose to an MCC or Methode Cap Classique sparkling wine.                          

It was a fabulous affair and we enjoyed the wine itself paired with oysters and salmon sandwiches atop the Paardeberg Mountain between Wellington and Malmesbury. This was followed with a lunch at the winery and flights of the Babiana Chenin Blanc blend, and the Erica Shiraz- the flagship white and red wines of the estate.

Epic lunch lineup to follow

The wine of the moment was a first- ever for Vondeling, and the first registered Methode Ancestral sparkling wine in the country.

The first certified Methode Ancestral wine in South Africa

Methode Ancestral Wine in France

In a quick flit through my older wine books at home and of course on the web, my journey of discovering this old way of making sparkling wine took me to the Aude department in South- central France. Its in the foothills of the Pyrenees Mountains in the Languedoc- Roussillon region.

It has the coolest climate in Languedoc- Roussillon, with influences from both the Atlantic and Mediterranean oceans.

It's an area better suited to cooler climate grapes like Chardonnay and Merlot than the more notorious southern french grapes like Syrah, Carignan and Grenache Blanc/ Noir.

Foothills of the Pyrenees

Old photo of the hillsides around Limoux

Methode Ancestral wine comes from the city of Limoux and the 41 villages surrounding it in the foothills of  the Pyrenees Mountains

We then focus on 4 french wine Appellations or classified wine designations around the city of Limoux, the first 3 of which are exclusively sparkling wine designations.

Its compulsory constituent grape of the white sparkling wines is Mauzac- a grape which ripens slowly and has apple flavours and a good natural acidity. Other permitted grapes are Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay. Good still wines in the area are single- varietal Chardonnay, or blends based on Chardonnay, and blended with Mauzac and Chenin Blanc. Red wines are based on Merlot (at least 50% of the blends), and then Carignan, Malbec, Syrah and Grenache are the other constituents, with occasional cameos from Cabernet's Franc and Sauvignon. Some Pinot Noir is added to the Crémant wines as well.

(1) Blanquette de Limoux AOC. Blanquette means, 'white' in the old Occitane language of the area. Wines must be 90% Mauzac with blended Chenin Blanc and/or Chardonnay. Wines are dry, fine, delicate and flowery with apple and cut- grass flavours. Wines undergo a second fermentation in the bottle in the champagne method. Disgorging is permitted.

(2) Crémant de Limoux AOC. This AOC was created in 1990 because producers wanted to make wines with more Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc- grapes with more globally attractive flavour profiles.

Crémant means, 'creamy' in French, in reference to its creamier, softer texture than champagne wine. It originated as a term for wines made in champagne which were not as fizzy as champagne wine itself. These wines had lower levels of CO2 and were bottled at lower pressures. 

Crémant then became a term used for sparkling wines made in the champagne method outside of Champagne, both within France and the European Union.

The main grape varieties for Crémant de Limoux are Chardonnay (40- 70%), Chenin Blanc (20- 40%), Mauzac (10- 20%) and Pinot Noir (0- 10%).

(3) Blanquette Méthode Ancestrale AOC. This is the designation and style of wine that the Vondeling Rurale is based on. The Methode Rurale- made wine, invented by the monks of the St- Hilaire monastery in 1531 was originally called Vin de Blanquette.

St- Hilaire Monastery- the home of Sparkling wine?

The locals of Limoux swear that they invented sparkling wine a century before the Champenois, and historians believe monks of the St- Hilaire monastery made the worlds first sparkling wine in the Methode Rurale (Ancestral) Method in 1531

Wine still bottled under the St- Hilaire name.

Could these be the first monks to make sparkling wine in Limoux, circa 1530? Maybe.

Its a sparkling wine which shows more fruit flavour, and has more sugar content. Its the oldest, simplest and purest way of making a sparkling wine.

Grapes are harvested later than for Crémant and champagne wines.

It can only be made from the Mauzac grape.

It is produced in the same area as Blanquette de Limoux.

There is no secondary fermentation in the bottle. Primary fermentation merely completes in bottle, and as such there will remain a lees sediment (dead yeast cells) in the bottle, rendering it cloudy.

Other distinguishing factors of production are that there is no disgorging that takes place, or subsequent dosage. Disgorging is the removing of the lees from the bottle

A dosage is an addition of a sugary liquid to the wine immediately after disgorging to meet required sweetness in the sparkling wine.

No secondary fermentation in bottle, disgorging or dosage for Methode Rurale wines

Wines are traditionally hand- crafted, and the use of modern equipment is kept to a minimum. 

Wines are low in alcohol, and have a fruit- forward flavour profile with sweet apple and lime notes.

Modern- day French Ancestrale

(4) Limoux AOC. Growing popularity of Vin de Pays (non- classified wine) still wines, notably Chardonnay from the area lead French authorities to create an AOC for Limoux still wines.

White wines are now made from Chardonnay, Mauzac and Chenin Blanc, and must contain at least 15% Mauzac. 

Any single- varietal wines are still released as Vin de Pays wines.

This is the first AOC to regulate mandatory barrel- fermentation for white wines.

Chardonnay is particularly well- known from the area, and Limoux Chardonnay is often considered the best french example outside of Burgundy.

From 2003, red wines are classified under this appellation, and they are based on Merlot (at least 50% of the blends), and then Carignan, Malbec, Syrah and Grenache, Cabernet's Franc and Sauvignon.

Carignan is gradually being phased out in favour of more Bordeaux varietal plantings.

There must be at least 3 grape varieties in each red blend.

Methode Ancestral sparkling wines are also made in the Appellations of Gaillac AOC (South- West France near Toulouse; 100% Mauzac grapes),
and Bugey AOC (Eastern France near Lyon; Whites from 50% Chardonnay then Aligote, Altesse, Jacquere, Mondeuse Blanche, and Rose sparkling wines from 50% Pinot Noir and Gamay then Mondeuse Noir, Pinot Gris and Poulsard)

The Vondeling wine

The Vondeling Methode Ancestral is made according to the Methode Rurale principals, but follows 2 aspects of Crémant and Blanquette de Limoux production in that there is a disgorging of the lees, and
Chardonnay grapes are used. The wine is clear and not cloudy.

Vondeling Vineyards facing South on the Voor Paardeberg

All other traditional aspects of production are followed in producing this intricately hand- crafted wine.

Before being bottled the wine spends 16 months on the lees.

Bottling takes place at just the right time when there is enough sugar present in the wine to allow for the fermentation to finish. If there is too much sugar the bottles could explode.
Its a wine which dictates when it would like to be bottled, and winemaker Matt would tell you that it hasn't been the timeliest beverage to produce- this vintage needing bottling slap- bang in the middle of harvest.

Only 1200 bottles were produced.

Key features of Rurale:

(1) Difficult wine to make, where timing is everything. Single fermentation completed in bottle.

(2) Riper fruit is used than an MCC wine.

(3) 100% natural and hand- crafted, small production.

Pretentious tasting note:

The first thing which struck me was the soft mousse (sparkliness). A fine bead is evident, with perhaps less sparkle than 'cheaper' MCC wines.
On the nose green fig and pear fruit with a hint of dry cream- wafer biscuits.
Fruit complexity on the palate is another distinguishing factor of this wine and it showed green pineapple, apple and pear flavours. Tasting through a bottle recently- over a period of a few hours- it even developed some sweet- sour notes with a hint of hoisin and ginger.
A fuller body than an MCC is also evident, then distinct grannysmith apple acidity persists for ages on the finish.

We enjoyed the wine with oysters and Salmon sandwiches on top of the Paardeberg. This was a superb pairing.

S&M Oysters- a perfect pairing

Winemaker Matt giving us the inside story

I think its also a great aperitif, and a refreshing summer bubbly to enjoy on its own. For a specific food pairing, I'd take a bottle with to a restaurant which does great dim sum. Dim sum dipped in some Hoisin and Chili paste- perfect!

Best with Oysters or some good, fresh Dim Sum

Final thoughts? I think this is a style of bubbly very well suited to making sparkling wines in warmer areas. Grapes don't have too much time on the vine during our shorter ripening period. In making an MCC,  I have always thought that South African versions can lack a bit of fruit complexity and concentration.
From what I understand, French grapes spend more time on the vine, and there is thus better development of flavour there for Champenoise wines.
Because the Ancestrale is harvested later in the vintage, more flavour is evident and there's a better marriage between fruit and acidity. I didn't find that any freshness was lost with the little extra sugar present.

Shouldn't more producers explore this exciting way of making sparkling wine?

Vondeling Babiana 2012

Vondeling Babiana 2012

Vondeling Wines come from Vondeling Wine Estate in the Voor Paardeberg area between Malmesbury and Wellington.

The Paardeberg Mountain is named after herds of Quagga and Cape Mountain Zebra (Perde)which used to roam its slopes.

A short throw back to 1704 is needed to get to the roots of this estate. It was first owned by Oloff Bergh- a famous Swedish pioneer linked with the Dutch government of the day. His existing farmhouse- built in 1750- still stands to this day. The well- known Oloff Bergh Brandy- distilled in Rawsonville- is named after him.

Original Vondeling Farmhouse built in 1750

Oloff Bergh. First hipster of the Cape?

Vondeling is the farm name, and means, 'Foundling'- an abandoned child.

Wine at Vondeling

Farm owner Julian Johnson has been managing the Vondeling vineyards for over 12 years. Vineyards are managed biologically with continuing efforts to reduce the impact use of chemicals.

Most of the vineyards face south, and the South- Easter combines with this favorable aspect to give cooler conditions- for grape growing- than surrounding areas (up to 5 degrees cooler).

South- facing vineyards, and cool southwesterly winds blowing every day in the late afternoon means cooler conditions than surrounding appellations

The Paardeberg is known for its decomposed granite soils. These soils give distinction to many of the old vines growing on the original farm site including old blocks of Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc. Granite soil heats quickly, and retains heat well. It has a high acidity, and helps subdue acidity in acidic grape varieties. There's a layer of clay below a sandy upper layer, which holds water through the dry season. Thus most of the vines are unirrigated- leading to deeper root systems for the vines and more minerality in the wines made from these grapes. 

Granite soils give distinction and a gravel- minerality to older plantings of Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc

Viognier and Chardonnay grow on alluvial soils promoting more vigorous growth, and reds grow on east and south- west facing slopes on Oakleaf and Tukulu soils.

Whats also important to note is that lower yields are encouraged leading to more concentration in the Vondeling wines.

Wines produced from the older vines on the farm tend to be more complex in flavour, achieve natural balance, reflect terroir better, and have a distinct, mouth- filling texture. Concentration and complexity is also helped by a tending towards natural fermentation on more the premium wines.

South- facing vineyards

Granite outcrop on the Paardeberg

Winemaker Matthew Copeland makes a range of wines based mainly on Chenin Blanc for the white wines to Syrah for the reds. Going forward most new plantings are to Mediterranean grape varieties which are more suited to the warmer climate of the Voor Paardeberg and Swartland areas.

In the cellar, and according to the Vondeling website, 'grapes are whole bunch pressed, thus retaining natural acidity and promoting juice extraction. Separate vinification of specific blocks and natural fermentation is an integral part of the process.' Basket pressing, hand plunging, minimal filtering and no fining are also features of Matthew's hands- on approach..

The winery is based in a converted milking shed with thick clay walls and a Rietdak thatch ceiling where the wines are matured in mainly older second and 3rd fill french oak barrels.

Old Clay and Rietdak maturation cellar

Conservation 

The Babiana blend is named after the plant Babiana Noctiflora- a night- time flowering fynbos flower which only grows on the Paardeberg mountain.

The Babiana Noctiflora flower

The Paardeberg is an area of extensive and important natural biodiversity. It hosts several plant species found nowhere else in the world.

Vondeling is the primary sponsor of the PSI, or Paardeberg Biodiversity Initiative which funds various conservation efforts, and has been involved in detailed environmental surveys recording all the species occurring on the mountain- sitting now at 900 and counting.

Typical Fynbos wildlife occurs on the mountain, and camera traps have photographed Cape Leopards roaming the area.

2 of Vondeling's wines- the Babiana white blend, and Erica Shiraz are named after indigenous plants.

Baboon selfie, and  a large male Leopard protecting the vines from Baboons..

Erica Hippuris

Flowers- Indigenous

The Grapes

The Voor Paardeberg and Swartland areas are blessed with plantings of old Rhone- varietal vines including Viognier, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Clairette Blanche. Other older plantings of Chenin Blanc, Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay also occur, with Chenin being the most abundant. These varieties produce exciting, blended white wines which are distinctive, terroir specific, and make a bold case for a truly unique style of South African wine.

The style which seems to be in favour is a wine based on Chenin Blanc, naturally fermented, fermented dry, and matured in predominantly older French oak barrels.

Chenin Blanc makes up 49% of the blend in question, and forms its backbone. Grapes are harvested from an old, low- yielding vineyard- known as The Graveyard Block . Its 32 years old!

Quality and concentration of fruit flavour from this block is excellent, and because the vines are unirrigated and roots go down quite deep- there's a nice gravelly/ flinty minerality the grapes add to the wine.

Chenin Blanc from a 32- year old vineyard called The Graveyard Block

Grenache Blanc (21%) adds a delightful freshness to the wine, with citrus and fresh herb flavours (maybe even a hint of lavender?). It contributes good acidic length to the Babiana 2012. Vintage has a profound effect on the final wine flavours, and as such the amount winemaker Matthew adds to the blend does vary. The past few vintages saw 3%, 3%, 8%, 8% and now 21% being added.

Viognier (15%). Viognier is an aromatic grape variety which adds structure and pronounced peach and floral aroma to a white blend. It has the propensity to overpower blends if not added sparingly- displaying very powerful aromatics, and then tart, tropical fruit and apricot flavours. As such there has not been more than 24% Viognier in a Vondeling blend.

Chardonnay (15%) contributes additional vigour and freshness to the wine, extra citrus and Naartjie  flavour, and fills out the palate with a nice viscosity. Grapes come from an old single- vineyard block.

The Wine

Matthew Copeland and his team hand- pick the grapes and the are whole- bunch pressed straight into barrel.

This means that the grapes are not put through a de- stemmer or crusher but pressed while still attached to the stems. This is usually done to produce a more delicate wine

Grapes are whole- bunch pressed- producing a more delicate wine. This method is most often used for sparkling wines

The press cycle takes longer, but the results are better. The juice is cleaner, less astringent and less bitter.

Whole bunches of white grapes being pressed

Grapes are hand- harvested for the Babiana..

Its raining grapes

Natural fermentation takes place in barrel, and the wine remains on the primary lees for 7 months. Batches are fermented separately. This is a nerve- racking time for the winemaker as the wine ferments at different speeds. The resulting wine however shows greater complexity, concentration, structure and palate weight.

After 7 months the wine is racked, blended and returned to barrel for a further 4 months.

My pretentious tasting note:

I thought the wine deserved a poetic description, so here goes:

The 2012 edition of the Babiana is my favourite to date. 21% extra Grenache Blanc has added a bit more freshness to the wine.

Crisp and distinct, it shows soft, honeyed citrus fruit on the nose with a hint of acacia blossom.

A complex palate follows with fruit layers of Mandarin Orange, Sweet Lime and quince laced with yellow spice

The finish on the palate is longer than on previous vintages, and acidity- racier.

Enjoy with poultry dishes or take a bottle with to your favourite Indian restaurant. Don't order anything too mild as the flavours may overpower the food. I thought it went very well with a medium- hot Khadai or Masala curry- both tomato- based.

Tasting Room & Potjie Competition

The best place to enjoy Vondeling wines aside from at home or at your favourite restaurant is at the farm. The tasting room looks back over the Paardeberg, and offers cracking picnics and a guided tour through the wide range of wines.

Every year in August, Vondeling hosts a Potjie Competition involving teams from the area, and from the wine trade. Its well worth attending. This year my team, Esperanca went on to win- providing some valuable insight into a strategy for next year! The winning dish was an oxtail potjie.

I did some research into what constitutes a proper potjie and this is what I found:

1) Its cooked in a round, cast iron, three-legged pot, the potjie

2) A potjie should include lightly- spiced meat on the bone, vegetable and starches

3) Meat is browned, and the vegetables then added

4) Liquid and often an alcoholic beverage of some sort can be added in small quantities. Sherry and wine both work well. 

5) Once the meat is browned, and the vegetables and then liquid (optional) added, a potjie should not be stirred- distinguishing it from a stew. 

6) Cooking is done at a very low temperature by steam, and not by boiling like a stew. 

7) Length of time for cooking is between 2- 6 hours.

The winning team